Ang tech 26

    Master this deck with 97 terms through effective study methods.

    Imported from Quizlet

    Created by @sallylovesong

    Filament

    a long continuous fibre strand

    Staple fibre

    short fibres spun into yarn

    Cellulosic

    relating to plant-based fibres (cotton linen viscose)

    Keratin

    the protein structure of wool and silk

    Bicomponent fibre

    fibre made of two polymer types

    Crystallinity

    the degree of ordered molecular arrangement in a fibre

    Amorphous region

    disordered molecular zones affecting dye uptake and flexibility

    Hygroscopicity

    the capacity of a fibre to absorb atmospheric moisture

    Birefringence

    the difference in refractive indices along fibre axes

    Tenacity

    the breaking strength of a fibre relative to its linear density

    Cohesiveness

    the ability of fibres to cling together during processing

    Crimp

    the natural or induced waviness of a fibre

    Combing

    removing short fibres to produce smoother yarn

    Carding

    disentangling and aligning fibres before spinning

    Ply

    the number of twisted strands in a yarn

    Tex / Denier

    units measuring yarn linear density

    Drafting

    drawing out fibres to reduce thickness before twisting

    Roving

    a loosely twisted slightly drafted fibre bundle prior to final spinning

    Count

    a numerical expression of yarn fineness (Ne Nm systems)

    Open-end spinning

    a yarn formation method bypassing conventional roving stages

    Air-jet spinning

    using compressed air vortices to twist fibres into yarn

    Friction spinning

    forming yarn by rolling fibres between moving surfaces

    False-twist texturing

    a process imparting bulk and stretch to filament yarns

    Torque

    the rotational force causing yarn to twist or snarl

    Warp

    longitudinal yarns held under tension on a loom

    Weft

    transverse yarns interlaced through the warp

    Selvage

    the self-finished edge of a woven fabric

    Shedding

    separating warp threads to allow weft insertion

    Interlacing

    the pattern of warp and weft crossings

    Twill

    a weave producing diagonal parallel ribs

    Float

    a yarn segment passing over multiple intersections without interlacing

    Satin weave

    a construction with long floats producing a smooth lustrous surface

    Pile fabric

    a textile with cut or uncut loops projecting from the base cloth

    Jacquard

    a complex weave mechanism allowing individual warp thread control

    Leno weave

    a structure where warp threads twist around each other to lock the weft

    Tuck stitch

    a knitting loop held without being knitted adding texture and width

    Course

    a horizontal row of loops in a knitted fabric

    Wale

    a vertical column of loops in a knitted structure

    Mercerisation

    alkali treatment of cotton to increase lustre and strength

    Singeing

    burning off surface fibres to create a smooth finish

    Scouring

    removing impurities from raw fibre or fabric

    Desizing

    removing sizing agents applied during weaving

    Bleaching

    oxidative or reductive whitening of grey fabric

    Hydrolysis

    chemical breakdown of fibres by water (damaging to polyester/nylon)

    Saponification

    the alkaline degradation of acetate fibres

    Optical brightener

    fluorescent compound absorbing UV and re-emitting as blue-white

    Chelating agent

    compound sequestering metal ions that interfere with dyeing

    Enzyme scouring

    using biological catalysts to remove impurities sustainably

    Bioscouring

    enzymatic removal of pectin and wax from cotton

    Mordant

    a fixative agent binding dye to fibre

    Substantive dye

    a dye with direct affinity for fibre without mordant

    Pad-batch dyeing

    applying dye by padding and then batching the fabric

    Discharge printing

    removing colour from dyed fabric to create patterns

    Fastness

    resistance of a dye to fading (light wash)

    Exhaustion

    the proportion of dye transferred from liquor to fibre

    Liquor ratio

    the ratio of water volume to fabric weight in a dyebath

    Affinity

    the thermodynamic tendency of a dye to migrate onto fibre

    Levelling

    the uniform distribution of dye across a fabric substrate

    Migration

    the movement of dye molecules toward equilibrium distribution

    Fixation rate

    the percentage of applied dye that bonds permanently

    Reactive dye

    dye forming covalent bonds with hydroxyl or amino groups

    Calendering

    passing fabric through heated rollers to create sheen

    Sanforizing

    a mechanical pre-shrinking process for woven fabrics

    Stentering

    stretching fabric to standard width under heat

    Raising

    mechanically lifting surface fibres for a napped effect

    Cropping / Shearing

    cutting raised fibres to a uniform height

    Resin finishing

    applying polymer crosslinks for crease recovery or stiffness

    Softening

    applying lubricants or silicone to improve fabric handle

    Laminating

    bonding two or more fabric layers with adhesive or heat

    MVTR

    measure of breathability (Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate)

    Hydrostatic head

    water pressure resistance of a waterproof fabric

    PCM

    Phase-change material for temperature regulation

    Electromagnetic shielding

    blocking EM fields using conductive fibres

    Antimicrobial finish

    treatment inhibiting microbial growth on fabric

    UPF

    rating of fabric's ability to block UV radiation

    Oleophobic finish

    surface treatment repelling oils and grease

    Wicking

    capillary transport of moisture through a fabric

    Nonwoven

    fabric made by bonding fibres without weaving or knitting

    Geotextile

    permeable textile used in civil engineering

    Smart textile

    fabric with integrated electronic or reactive properties

    Tensile strength

    resistance of a fibre or fabric to breaking under tension

    Elongation at break

    how much a fibre stretches before snapping

    Pilling propensity

    tendency of fibres to form small surface bobbles

    Pilling resistance

    quantified resistance to surface bobble formation

    Abrasion resistance

    ability of a fabric to withstand surface wear

    Bursting strength

    pressure required to rupture a fabric

    Drape coefficient

    numerical measure of how freely fabric hangs

    Dimensional stability

    degree to which fabric retains dimensions after stress

    Torque in yarn

    residual twist forces causing spirality in knits

    Grading

    systematic classification of fibres by quality

    Cradle-to-gate

    lifecycle assessment from raw material to factory gate

    Recycled polyester (rPET)

    fibre produced from post-consumer plastic bottles

    Lyocell

    solvent-spun cellulosic fibre produced in a closed-loop system

    Biodegradability

    capacity of a material to decompose biologically

    Effluent treatment

    processing of wastewater from dyeing/finishing

    Carbon footprint

    total GHG emissions across the production chain

    Upcycling

    transforming waste textiles into higher-value products