Master this deck with 100 terms through effective study methods.
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yarns in both directions
made of loops, stretchy
a manufactured sheet, batting, webbing, or fabric that is held together by various methods ex. glue
2 fabrics glued together
most basic unit from which products are made
like plastic, inexpensive
continuous strand of fibers used to knit/weave fabrics
cloth produced by interlacing/inter looping yarns or by binding together fiber webs
up and down
left and right
where newly constructed fabric is wound
comb like frame with vertical slits that secures the weft in place as it is woven
frame of loom that holds the warp threads. More= more patterns you can create. 4= plain and twill weaves
made of wire/cord. hang from shaft of loom and have an eye in the center. There are as many as there are warp threads
roller on which the warp ends are wound for weaving
seperation between upper and lower warp yarns through which weft is woven
tool that holds yarn and carried it across warps to create weave
when fabric is woven, warp and filling yarns are perpendicular
not perpendicular, can affect how fabric hangs/ drapes
weft is not at 90 degree angle, printed off grain, bad fit and bad print
the number of ends and picks counted per inch in a woven fabric
Satin
plain, twill, satin
satin
denim
results from the most basic interlacing of warp and filling yarns, minimum number of interlacings, 2 harnesses, reversible, least expensive type of fabric, works well for prints and finishes
china silk, chiffon, organza, challis, chambray, gingham, madras/plaid
variation of plain weave in which a thick yarn or more than 1 yarn is used in the warp or filling direction to give the fabric a ribbed effect ex. 2:1 yarns
broadcloth, poplin, taffeta, faille
variation of plain weave in which 2 or more yarns in the warp or filling direction are treated as a set, full (2x2) and half (2x1), yarns travel together
monks cloth, canvas, Oxford, duck
basic weave characterized by prominent diagonal ridges, each warp/filling yarn floats across 2 or more with a progression of interfacings to the right/left forming a WALE; -face of the fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale -changes direction between sides but no up and down -left hand: diagonal from upper left to lower right -right hand: diagonal from upper right to lower left -seldom printed, seldom sheer
denim, chino, surah, gabardine, herringbone, houndstooth, glen plaid
warp yarn goes over and under same number of filling yarns ex. 2x2
warp yarn goes over and under different number of filling yarns ex. 2x1
war faced fabrics typically woven with smooth lustrous filament yarns for maximum luster on surface of fabric - each warp floats over 7 filling yarns (5 harnesses) -no 2 interlacings are adjacent -fewer interlacings (pliability, wrinkles less) -higher thread count (strength, durability, wind repellent) -has longest floats -snags easy
satin, sateen
crepe/ momie, jacquard, brocade, damask, extra yarn weave, dobby weave, velvet, velveteen, corduroy, Leno weave, double cloth/ double weave/ double faced, matelasse, seersucker& terrycloth (both seersucker and Terry cloth are slack tension weaves)
yarns dyed particular color to bring out pattern in weave
single filling, double filling, warp
up and down
left and right
film, foam, craft felt, true felt, fiber web, dry laid fiber web, tyvek, imitation suede, gore-tex & pleather(both laminated), ultrasonic(quilted)
- Felt is the cheapest - Brocade is the most expensive
- Warp needs to be stronger because it runs through a loom o Warp yarn is put into loom first o They need to be able to take the abrasion of inserting the weft yarns across them - Weft strips run horizontally through a fabric o Sometimes called filling yarns o Fills in the fabric gaps o Can be more of a novelty fabric, can add interest into the fabric
- Warp beam: holds the warp yarns that are getting ready to be threaded through the loom - Heddle holds one warp yarn - Harnesses hold a series of heddles - A shed is an opening where you insert the filling yarn - Shuttle holds filling yarn, filled in across the warp yarn - Reed/Batten helps determine the threads per inch - All rolled up on a cloth or fabric beam Fly shuttle, doesn't use hands, flies to each part of the loom o Works a little faster than hand loom o Many fabrics in developing countries are still being made using a fly shuttle
- Plain weave (uses 2)
- When the filling is not entered perpendicularly... o Can make a skew or off grain (too tight) o Can make a bow (too loose) o These effect the fit of the clothing
- How many threads are packed into a square inch of the fabric - Could be written as 500 count or 200 x 300 o Saying in one direction we have 200 threads and another direction we have 300 threads - Can have a 600 thread count by having 100 threads vertical and 100 threads horizontal, but each of those threads is a 3-ply thread (took 3 yarns and twisted them together into one)
- Satin and Sateen weaves
1. Plain 2. Plain Rib 3. Twill (even right hand) 4. Plain basket 5. Twill (uneven) 6. Satin
Plain, Twill, Satin
- The most basic, simplest, and common of weaves o Over one yarn, under one yarn - Only uses 2 harnesses on the loom - When looking at a plain weave fabric, one of the ways to identify is that the front and back are the same
- A thick yarn is used in the warp or filling direction to give the fabric a ribbed effect - They are reversible fabrics (unless printed) - Rib tends to unbalance a fabric, because you have thicker filling yarn, it doubles the yarn in one direction than the other - When thicker yarns are in the weft direction it is called a Repp Weave - When thicker yarns are in the warp direction it is called a Rib weave
- Two or more yarns in the warp and/or filling direction are treated as a set. The sets interlace in the same way as single yarns in a plain weave. - Basket weaves are described by the number of yarns in the set, the first number is the warp yarns traveling together, second number are the filling yarns traveling together - The face and the back are the same
- Twill weave has a prominent diagonal line that goes across the surface - Wales are made up of warp yarns and are interlacing once in the back - Front/face looks diagonal and warp yarn is mainly showing up - Twill line changes from front to back - The number of filling yarns the warp goes over and under determines the pattern - Uneven: 3/1 (over 3, under 1), warp faced denim, chino, gabardine - Even: 2/2, serge, surah, houndstooth, herringbone - Twill floats tend to be floating over 2 or 3
- Satin weaves have long floats in the warp direction - 4 or more floats
Satin and Sateen weaves
Denim (Double cloth fabrics will be heavier)
China Silk- thin, has luster, smooth Chiffon- sheer, thin, some luster Voile - no luster Organza- stiff, holds more shape Challis- thin and sheer Gingham Chambray- looks similar to denim but is a plain weave
Taffeta- typically used for gowns Broadcloth Poplin Faille- ribbon look, has luster, (pronounced rib)
Monk's Cloth Chambray Oxford Cloth (2x1)
Surah Denim Chino Gabardine Herringbone Houndstooth (even sided)
Satin - very smooth, has luster, drapable, Silk or polyester Sateen - not as shiny as satin, smooth, soft, Always cotton
- We use the crepe weave to get this pebbly texture without having to use high twist yarns o Faster and cheaper process o Varies the float length to get a scattered look o Has to be done with a dobby attachment
o Floats are varied across the surface of the fabric to make up a design o To do this we need to be able to control every warp thread in the loom o Every warp and heddle are controlled individually o We use computer aided design to put actual pictures into the weave of the fabric itself o They tend to be large florals, birds, or natural organic shapes across the surface - Brocade is a particular fabric made from the jacquard weave made with a jacquard loom o Tend to have some shininess and luster to them - Damask is a fabric made on the jacquard loom o It is only made with one or two colors
- Extra filling yarns that travel across the back of the fabric and then come up and make a figure then go back o They are floating across the back then come up to the front to make a figure o If you were to pull yarn out, it would take out the figure but wouldn't destroy the fabric itself - "Clipped spot" fabric has extra weft go across it to make the figure but then is clipped so you don't get the extra yarn across the sides (gives more texture) - Extra-yarn can mimic embroidery (hand done), can use a dobby attachment to make it faster
- Dobby weaves make small geometric designs and straight lines - Require an extra attachment to the loom
- Done by inserting into the weave an extra warp or weft yarn o Extra yarn is not there to hold together the structure of the fabric
- Very open type of weave, very novelty - Structure creates a really open fabric that's pretty stable - Leno weaves crosses warp yarns in between each filling yarns (Not interlacing, crossing) o Crossing structure keeps the grid stable o Gives structure to very open fabric
- A complex weave, essentially weaving two fabrics at one time o Made with two warp beams o Using two sets of warps and maybe one or two sets of fillings to create 2 fabrics at one time - There are spots in the fabric where they share yarns, in those areas we cannot separate the cloth
- Uses two warp beams o One warp beam is held at lesser tension (slack tension) o The other beam is held at a regular tension - When released from the warp beam creates puckers in the fabric o It is a permanent feature in the fabric, you cannot iron it out 119/Seersucker: - True seersucker has puckers in it that you cannot iron out 117/Terrycloth: - made with slack-tension o Has the extra warp beam, but is held very loosely o So, instead of creating puckers, you are creating loops across the surface (pile) o Covered in uncut loops
- Wovens have a grid structure - Knits have a loop structure o Creates a v-type shape o Very stretchy - Knit is very easy to create a sample or change the pattern - Weaving is very labor intensive due to threading warp yarns o Knitting machine creates much less debris o Knit fabrics need ironing less, they are more resilient o A more quieter operation than a loom/woven factory
- Warp knits are less likely to snag as well as less stretchy
- Knits that you can do by hand, that involves at least 2 needles o You form loops of yarn and pass them from one needle to another o Quick to learn, but time consuming (when using hands)
- must be done by machine - essentially you are knitting two fabrics together at the same time - thicker and more stable, less likely to sag or stretch out
- They are traveling in the warp direction, and create a chain of loops - Made in tricot machines (Tricot is a warp knit fabric) - One of the fastest ways to make a fabric - Can be cost effective and cheap, but you have to use very smooth and uniform yarns - Most warp knits are made with filament fibers - warp knits tend to be not as stretchy as double or single filling
single filling
- Jersey is most common single knit, used in t-shirts, pantyhose, etc - Rib knits are also single knit, and creates more shaping and stretch to a garment, used for collars, cuffs, hats - Tricot is a warp knit that is used in things that need more abrasion resistance and is a firm fabric
- Jersey is a single knit - Interlock is a double knit - Tricot is a warp knit
- Wales vertical, courses horizontal
- You take a staple fiber that is combed/carded between rollers - then a binder is put on (thin glue that holds them together) - they are dried with heat and are wound onto a roll
- Fibers are melted together - Used with thermoplastic fibers - Very cheap textile, commonly used for potato sacks - Tyvek can be made the same way
- Made by shattering fibers with a jetted air o Makes a very fluffy insulating layer of fabric o Very weak and can only be used with a layer with other fabrics o Fibers are thermoplastic
- Used to make fake felt with acrylic fibers - Take fibers and put then under a plate that has little needles, it tangles up the fibers and creates a felt - This technique can also make ultra-suede & craft felt
- Very cheap to make, a layer of fibers is tangled together using tiny jets of water - Leaves obvious holes in the fabric, used in disposable applications such as hospital gowns, wipes, etc.
- Leavers machine: simulates a handmade lace - NOT a knit - Very expensive to produce, can have 500 bobbins to create the lace
imitation felt is needle punched and wool felt is heat/water/agitation
- Ex. Plastic feeling shower curtain - Made out of the same materials as synthetic fibers - Shoot polymer or dope through a slit and you get a fabric instead of a fiber or yarn o Feels like plastic o doesn't have a lot of drape o doesn't absorb water - No yarns, flat nonporous material
- Made by pushing a polymer or dope through a slit, but add air at the same time so you get a spongey layer of fabric - Thicker, with air bubbles built into it - Very weak, great for cushion and insulation, but very easy to tear - Often combined with a layer of film o Can be easily melted together and become a permanent structure
- Real leather comes in the shape of an animal, the textile input is int the shape of a hide of an animal o Thickness varies due to what part of the body the leather comes from o Takes training to cut, sew, and evaluate real leather o Leather can never be washed with water - Ultrasuede is sold by the bolt and not hide o Cheaper and no special knowledge to cut and sew o Typically made of synthetic materials (polyurethane) Can be washed
- Gore-tex trademarked porous film - Engineered micro pores, looks like its been punched with a lot of holes o Allows fibers that are very nonporous to breath o Water can not get in because the molecules are bigger than the micro pores - Would not be able to see these holes in the fabric itself - Gore-tex is added to a lot of active outdoor wear - Can be very expensive when added to performance wear
- Pleather is a composite fabric o Layers are stable, don't peel apart, but overtime it can crack when it gets cold
- You have a technical face fabric, a middle fabric that provides insulating properties, and a fabric on the bottom - Composite
- Looks like a quilt has stitching on the top, but the stiches are made by heat (applied to patterns), heat makes the layers stick together, it is then cooled, and they stick together o Much cheaper than sewing the layers together o Composite
China silk uses a plain weave and satin uses a satin weave
- Both are made from twill weaves - Denim is yarn dyed usually made with cotton - Gabardine is made with wool.
- Taffeta is made with a plain weave rib variation - Satin is made with a satin weave.
- Waffle cloth is a dobby weave - thermal knit is a knit fabric
- Extra yarn you can see yarns travelling across the back - dobby weave is part of the fabric itself (seen on both side) and is more expensive